![]() ![]() Plus, having to work within the physical confines of an existing housing and axle tube design means you can only go so much bigger before you are forced to go "better".įor applications requiring even more strength than the 1541H, steels like 4140 & 4340 (chromemoly) are used. Increased mass (larger axle diameter) is the first logical answer compare a passenger car to anything made for abuse (HD truck, tractor, etc.) and that becomes obvious.īut in a performance application a physically larger part also means the penalty of increased weight. This allows a stronger part without making the part physically larger. The deeper the hardening effect, the stronger the axle. For the most part, axles are not hardened completely through (unless we have an alloy steel). ![]() Reading between the lines is often dangerous, but simply put, 1541H is a steel with same approximate carbon content as 1040, with added manganese.Īs you suggested, the manganese does allow deeper hardening than carbon alone. The "standard" for OEM axle material was 1040, sometimes possibly 1050. ![]() It is widely used in aftermarket axles due to the fact that, properly treated, it can provide about 25% more strength versus the standard 1040. Never worked with the 1541H before, at least not outside the form it was already in (axle).īut I don't see why it wouldn't make a good starting point for further experimentation probably something I need to check into myself. Had to call some guys I didn't know were still in the area for this one. You're forcing me to think back over 20 years! Like most I hung around with, weekend drag racing, offroad 4x4s, and tractor pulling consumed much of my youth (and $$). Some American anvils also used the same system to identify weight, but may have used dashes instead of dots.) (Look closely and you can probably see dots between the numbers. That's a very good find, as the Peter Wrights in the larger sizes are getting difficult to find, especially one in as good condition as the photos show.īy no means am I even close to being an expert on anvils, so I can't help with age.īut every PW anvil I've come across has used the hundredweight system to identify weight. Multiply each, then add all together for the total. In any event, would really like to know the "Vintage" year of production of this anvil.Pretty difficult for me to get an idea of dimensions by the photos, but if the numbers are an indicator of weight, that's a massive anvil.Īnd to think he had one nearly twice as large?!Įnglish anvils (like Peter Wright) used the hundredweight system to identify weight.ġst number identifies how many hundredweight (112 pounds).Ģnd number identifies the quarter hundredweight (28 pounds).ģrd number identifies actual remaining pounds. Postman suggested the "Made in England" as being after 1910, but others suggest that 1891 is more correct. "That on and after the first day of March, eighteen hundred and ninety-one, all articles of foreign manufacture, such as are usually or ordinarily marked, stamped, branded or labeled, and all packages containing such or other imported articles, shall, respectively, be plainly marked, stamped, branded, or labeled in legible English words, so as to indicate the country of their origin and unless so marked, stamped or branded, or labeled they shall not be admitted to entry." With regards to the country of origin marking, it was stated in section 6, page 58 in the original printed McKinley Tariff Act of 1890: The "2068" sure looks like a Serial Number, but I don't know.ĭue to the "Made in England" markings, I would assume it was produced after March of 1891. Then, midway between the "Weight" numbers and anvil base, what looks to be a serial-number: 2068įinally, at the very bottom just above the base: S I cleaned it up a bit and found these steel-stampings. I just bought my first Peter Wright Anvil. ![]()
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